The pattern for this reproduction was taken from a John T. Martin Contract,  Made with a three piece body construction, utilizing a one-piece back. The cuff facing is narrow at 5.8" but is as found on most J.T. Martin contracts. Furthermore, the button facing in the lining which wide at the neckline and tapers sharply at the bottom. It should be noted that the original blouse that our replica was patterned after, as well as all of the others we examined had the lining ending about three to five inches from the bottom hem of the coat. Although it is speculation on our part, we believe that this was to allow for the shrinkage of the flannel body. If the coat was lined completely to the bottom, the lining would hang below the hem if the coat shrank. The reenactor should begin to notice that many modern “”sutlers” offer replica sack coats which are lined right to the hem like a modern blazer. I will state very plainly, that I have never seen ANY originals like this. If you look on page 125 of Time Life’s Echoes of Glory, you will note the Cincinnati Arsenal sack coat illustrates my point. Furthermore, all of the linings of the original sack coats that I examined were of one piece, only being seamed at the shoulders. Most often, they utilized the selvage edge as the bottom of the lining, which would serve to place the grain lines perpendicular to each other. Our speculation is that this is a production expedient, which merely obviates the need for a hem. In other words, it is one less step, and consequently, a way in which a contractor can save money. This may sound ridiculous with just one coat, but most army contracts were for 10,000 coats at the rate of 1,000 per week. At that level, every second adds up.

More sizes coming in!